IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


<.^.**!^ 


1.0 


1.1 


Ki  liiii    12.2 

2.0 


u 


IM 


UA 


11-25  11 1.4 


I 


1.6 


^^' 


.V 


^ 


^r 


Hiotographic 

Scimes 

Qsparadon 


^ 


4^ 


^ 


V 


J3  VT»t  fcUM  tTMMT 

WIII«Vb«,N.Y.  1«SM 

(7t«)t73-4503 


4^ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVi/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  IMicroraproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  da  microraproductions  liistoriquas 


Tschnical  and  Bibliographic  Notaa/Nota*  tachniquaa  at  biblloflraphiquaa 


Tha  Instltuta  haa  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  baat 
original  copy  availabia  for  filming.  Faaturaa  of  thia 
copy  which  may  ba  bibllographically  unlqua. 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagaa  in  tha 
raproduction,  or  which  may  aignificantly  changa 
tha  usual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chaclcad  balow. 


r~J]    Colourad  covars/ 
L^    Couvartura  da  coulaur 


I      I    Covars  damagad/ 


Couvartura  andommagto 


□    Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couvartura  restaur6e  et/ou  peliiculAe 

□    Cover  title  missing/ 
Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


D 


D 


D 


Cartes  giographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleiie  ou  noire) 


I     I   Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


D 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couieur 

Bound  with  other  materiaV 
ReliA  aver  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serrie  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  la  long  de  la  marge  intirieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajoutias 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissant  dans  la  texte. 
mais.  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pagaa  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmtes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplimentaires; 


L'Inatltut  a  microfilm^  la  malileur  exemplaira 
qu'il  lui  a  AtA  poaaibia  da  aa  procurer.  Las  details 
da  cat  exemplaira  qui  aont  paut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vua  bibllographlqua,  qui  pauvent  modifier 
una  image  raproduite,  ou  qui  pauvent  exiger  une 
modification  dana  la  mAthoda  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquAs  ci-dessous. 


|~n   Coloured  pages/ 


D 


Ptges  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagAas 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  rastaurAea  et/ou  pelliculAes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxei 
Pages  dAcolorAes,  tachetAes  ou  piquAes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  dAtachAes 

Showthroughy 
Tranaparance 

Quality  of  prir 

QualltA  InAgala  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materii 
Comprend  du  matAriel  supplAmentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Aditlon  disponible 


I — I  Pages  damaged/ 

I     I  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

Fyl  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I     I  Pages  detached/ 

r~y|  Showthrough/ 

I      I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

r~~|  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

pn  Only  edition  available/ 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Lea  pages  totalament  ou  partiailement 
obscurcies  par  un  fauillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  AtA  fiimAes  A  nouveau  de  faqon  A 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  eat  filmA  au  taux  da  rAduction  indiquA  ci-daaaoua. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


2SX 


aox 


A 


12X 


16X 


aox 


24X 


28X 


32X 


Th«  copy  fllmsd  h«r«  has  bMn  raproduead  thanka 
to  tha  ganaroalty  of: 

Library  of  tha  Public 
Arehiva*  of  Canada 


L'axamplaira  fiimA  fut  raproduit  grica  k  la 
g4n*roalt*  da: 

La  bibiiothiqua  das  Archival 
publiquas  du  Canada 


Tha  imagat  appaaring  hara  ara  tha  bast  quality 
posslbia  eonaidaring  tha  condition  and  laglbllity 
of  tha  original  copy  and  In  kaaping  wit^  tha 
filming  contract  spacif icationa. 


Laa  imagaa  suivantas  ont  At*  raproduitas  avac  la 
plus  grand  soin,  compta  tanu  da  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattati  da  l'axamplaira  film*,  at  an 
conformity  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  da 
filmaga. 


Original  copiaa  In  printad  papar  covara  ara  filmad 
baginning  with  tha  front  covar  and  ending  on 
tha  last  paga  with  a  printad  or  illuatratad  impras- 
sion,  or  tha  back  covar  whan  appropriate.  All 
othar  original  capias  ara  filmad  beginning  on  tha 
first  page  with  a  printad  or  illuatratad  impras* 
sion,  and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  ^  printad 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Lee  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  eet  ImprimAe  sent  fiimis  en  commenpant 
par  la  premier  plat  at  en  terminent  salt  par  la 
darnMre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  la  second 
plat,  salon  le  ces.  Tous  les  eutres  exempleires 
originaux  aont  film*s  en  commen^ant  par  la 
pramlAre  pege  qui  comporte  une  smpreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  at  en  terminent  par 
la  darnlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


Tha  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shell  contain  tha  symbol  >— •*>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  Y  (meaning  "END"), 
which  ver  applies. 


Un  des  symboies  suivants  apparaltra  sur  la 
darnlAre  Imege  de  cheque  microfiche,  seion  la 
caa:  le  symbols  — »>  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
eymbole  y  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  cherts,  etc..  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  expoaura  ara  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmte  A  des  taux  de  rMuction  diffirents. 
Lorsque  *e  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  11  est  film*  A  partir 
de  Tangle  sup4rieur  geuche,  de  geuche  *  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bee.  en  prenant  la  nombre 
d'imagas  n*cessaira.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthoda. 


1  2  3 


1 

2 

3 

4 

S 

6 

. 


p 

m 
M 
M 

M 
M 

M 
M 
M 

M 
m 

M 

M 

M 

m 


iliiipipiipip^pi^^^OT 


wmm. 


\iu^^ 


T   ■•«3»!>-r»''?«r'' 


ir^^^^KW^  ACCOUNT  ^^^^^^^ 


JOUMEY  TO  NIAGARA, 


MONTREAL  AND  QUEBEC, 


IN 


17  6  5; 


"'TIS  EIGHTY  YEARS  SINCE." 


N  E  W  •  Y  O  R  K  : 
PRINTED  BY  WILLIAM  OSBORN, 

SrRUCE-STl-ZBT,    CORNKn  OF  NASSAU. 
V. 

1  84ti  . 


V' 


■»  .    .  .  .      »  ,    . 


.\  ' 


PREFACE. 


As  THE  time  has  arrived  when  hundreds  and 
thousands  will  be  gliding  smoothly  and  swiflly 
along  to  view  the  most  magnificent  of  Nature's 
works,  it  may  not  be  uninteresting  to  read  the 
journal  of  an  intelligent  gentleman  when  on  the 
same  pilgrimage  in  the  year  1765,  and  to  mark 
the  difference  of  the  undertaking  then  and  now. 
While  some,  no  doubt,  will  rejoice  in  being 
able  to  obtain  so  grand  a  sight  at  so  small  a 
cost  of  time  and  trouble,  others  (perhaps  many) 
will  regret  that  the  facilities  afforded  to  travel- 
lers in  these  days  should  have  deprived  the 
enterprise  of  all  its  romance,  and  wish  that 
they  too  had  lived  when  indeed  it  was  some- 
thing  to  have  seen  the  Falls  of  Niagara. 


i 


JOURNEY  TO  NIAGARA. 


Monday,  24th  June,  1765.  Went  with  my 
three  companions  on  board  a  sloop  for  Albany 
— a  very  hot  day,  with  the  wind  at  south.  After 
sailing  about  fifty  miles  through  a  very  rocky 
and  mountainous  country,  the  wind  came  about 
contrary  and  we  anchored.  Friday,  28th. 
Arrived  at  Albany,  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles 
from  New- York.  Albany  is  a  dirty,  ill-built 
Dutch  town,  of  about  three  hundred  houses ; 
stands  upon  Hudson's  River.  Dined  at  Schuy- 
ler's. July  2d.  Left  Albany  in  a  wagon, 
came  to  Schenectady.  Lay  at  Sir  William 
Johnson's ;  he  is  superintendent  for  Indian 
afiairs  in  the  northern  district.  Breakfasted  at 
Fort  Johnson,  where  Sir  William's  son  lives, 
eighteen  miles  from  Schenectady ;  good  land  all 
the  way  thither.  Dined  with  Sir  William  at 
Johnson  Hall.    Extraordinary  good  land  about 


6 


JOURNEY   TO   NIAGARA. 


his  house.  The  office  of  superintendent  very 
troublesome.  Sir  William  continually  plagued 
with  Indians  about  him,  generally  from  three 
hundred  to  nine  hundred  in  number  —  spoil  his 
garden  and  keep  his  house  always  dirty.  7th. 
Lcfl  Sir  William's ;  lay  at  Nicholas  Failings, 
a  very  honest  civil  Dutchman,  who  seemed  glad 
to  give  us  whatever  he  had  in  his  house ;  it  is 
forty-two  miles  from  Schenectady.  8th.  Got  to 
Nicholas  Harkimer's,  sixteen  miles  from  Fai- 
lings. 9th.  Fort  Harkimer,  eight  miles.  The 
land  about  it  belongs  to  old  Harkimer,  excel- 
lent land,  settled  by  Germans.  During  the  war 
this  fort  was  built  for  the  protection  of  the 
neighborhood  from  the  attacks  of  the  Six 
Nation  Indians,  who  live  round  about  it.  10th. 
Discharged  our  wagon;  went  on  board  a 
batteau ;  hunted  and  rowed  up  the  Mohawk 
River  against  the  stream,  which,  on  account 
of  the  rapidity  of  the  current,  is  very  hard 
work  for  the  poor  soldiers.  Encamped  on  the 
banks  of  the  river,  about  nine  miles  from  Harki- 
mer's. 

The  inconveniences  attending  a  married 
subaltern,  strongly  appear  in  this  tour;  what 
with  the  sickness  of  their  wives,  the  squealing 


] 


JOtKNEY    TO    NIAGARA. 


of  their  children,  and  the  smallncss  of  their  pay 
I  think  the  gentlemen  discover  no  uncommon 
share  of  philosophy,  in  keeping  themselves 
from  running  mad.  Otficers  and  soldiers,  with 
their  wives  and  children,  legitimate  and  illegiti- 
mate, make  altogether  a  pretty  compound  oglio, 
which  does  not  tend  towards  showing  military 
matrimony  off  to  any  great  advantage. 

Friday  11th.  Got  to  Fort  Schuyler,  fifteen 
miles  from  our  last  night's  encampment.  A 
little  block-house,  built  during  the  late  war,  not 
capable  of  containing  above  six,  or  eight 
people. 

Saturday  13th.  Had  a  disagreeable  ride 
twenty-two  miles  through  a  thick  wood,  with  a 
bad  path,  to  Fort  Stanwix  built  in  the  year 
1759  by  General  Stanwix.  Lieutenant  Allan 
Grant  commanded  there. 

Monday  14th.  Went  on  horseback  by  the 
side  of  Wood-creek,  twenty  miles  to  the  royal 
block-house,  a  kind  of  wooden  castle ;  proof 
against  any  Indian  attacks.  It  is  now  aban- 
doned by  the  troops,  and  a  settler  lives  there, 
who  keeps  rum,  milk,  rackoons,  etc.,  which 
though  nothing  of  the  most  elegant,  is  comfort- 
able to  stran;?ers  passing  that  way. 


8 


JOURNEY   TO   NIAGARA. 


I- 


This  block-house  is  situated  on  the  east 
end  of  the  Oneida  Lake,  and  is  surrounded  by 
the  Oneida  Indians,  one  of  the  Six  Nations. 

Some  of  our  batteaux  not  being  come  up,  we 
stayed  next  day  at  the  block  house.  16th. 
Embarked  and  rowed  to  the  west  end  cf  the 
lake,  which  is  twenty-eight  miles,  to  Fort  Brew- 
ington,  a  small  stockade,  built  last  war.  The 
Oneida  Lake  is  twenty  miles  broad  from  north 
to  south. 

17th.  Rowed  down  Oswego  River  to  the 
Onondaga  Falls,  thirty-nine  miles.  These  falls, 
are  so  rapid,  that  the  batteaux  were  all  drawn 
out  of  the  water,  and  rolled  twenty  yards,  upon 
logs,  made  for  that  purpose  below  the  Falls, 
where  we  encamped. 

18th.  Arrived  at  Fort  Ontario,  (command- 
ed by  Captain  Lieut.  Jonathan  Rogers  of  the 
Seventeeth,)  situated  on  the  lake  of  that  name, 
near  a  point  formed  by  the  lake  and  Oswego 
river.  Fort  Ontario  is  of  wood,  has  five  bas- 
tions, built  in  1759. 

Fort  Oswego,  which  was  taken  by  the 
French,  is  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river, 
within  sight  of  this  Fort 

Fondiach,  the  famous  Ottowa  chief)  with  fifly 


JOURNEY   TO    NIAGARA. 


9 


head  men  of  the  neighboring  Indians,  were 
arrived  liere  to  meet  Sir  WilUam  Johnson, 
about  matters  of  consequence. 

21st.     Sir  William  arrived. 

22d.  At  two  o'clock  in  the  morning,  left 
Fort  Ontario,  encamped  on  the  banks  of  Lake 
Ontario,  about  thirty  miles  from  the  Fort. 

23d.  Proceeded  and  encamped.  24th.  Ar- 
rived late  in  the  evening  at  Niagara  Fort,  one 
hundred  and  seventy  miles  from  Fort  Ontario. 
Captain  Thomas  Morris,  of  the  seventeenth  regi- 
ment, commanded  here.  Many  civilities  receiv- 
ed from  him  and  the  officers  of  the  regiment. 

26th.  Rode  to  Fort  Schlosser,  about  fifteen 
miles  from  Niagara,  which  is  situated  on  Niag- 
ara River,  about  two  miles  above  the  famous 
Falls. 

Mr  Pfister,  a  German  half-pay  lieutenant  of 
the  Royal  Americans,  lives  at  Fort  Schlosser. 
He  has  made  a  contract  with  General  Gage, 
commander-in-chicfi  to  carry  all  stores,  bat- 
teaux,  etc.,  belonging  to  the  army,  in  wagons 
over  land,  about  seven  miles,  the  Falls  of  Niag- 
ara making  the  river  of  that  name  so  rapid, 
both  above  and  below  them,  that  it  is  absolutely 
necessary  for  every  thing  going  towards  Lake 

2 


t'l 


10 


JOURNEY    TO    NIAGARA. 


ii 


I    i 


Erie,  to  be  carried  that  distance  by  land. 
Every  batteau,  besides  those  belonging  to  the 
army,  pay  him  <£  10,  New- York  currency,  and 
upwards,  according  to  their  size. 

Batteaux  and  all  heavy  baggage  are  raised  to 
the  top  of  an  high  hill  on  the  river,  by  means  of 
a  capstan. 

From  Fort  Schlosser  we  went  to  see  the 
Falls,  which  are  two  amazing  cataracts,  divided 
by  an  island  in  the  river.  We  were  inclined  to 
go  down  a  steep  rock  and  view  the  Falls  from 
the  bottom,  but  having  no  rope  with  us  to  fasten 
to  a  tree  above,  the  dangerous  appearance  of 
the  precipice  deterred  us. 

A  few  days  after,  we  crossed  the  river  from 
Niagara  Fort  and  rode  to  the  Falls,  which  ap- 
peared much  higher  and  more  beautiful  than 
from  the  opposite  side. 

We  had  got  a  rope,  and  resolved  by  its  as- 
sistance to  go  to  the  bottom  of  the  Falls ;  but 
some  accident  happening  to  the  horse  of  the 
man  who  had  charge  of  the  rope,  he  was 
obliged  to  stop  on  the  road,  and  endeavoiing 
to  overtake  us,  he  lost  his  way ;  so  we  should 
have  been  a  second  time  disappointed  of  the 
pleasure  of  seeing  the  Falls  from  the  bottom, 


JOURNEY    TO    NIAGARA. 


11 


Ihe 
nd 


to 
of 


the 


had  we  not  resolved  to  go  down  at  all  events, 
without  a  rope.  Before  this  resolution  could 
be  executed,  it  was  necessary  to  find  out  a  pro- 
per place  from  which  we  might  make  an  attempt 
with  some  probability  of  success. 

This  was  no  easy  matter  ;  and  we  examined 
the  banks  of  the  river  for  at  least  an  hour  and  a 
half  before  any  such  place  could  be  found.  No- 
thing but  the  bare  face  of  a  rock  was  to  be  seen. 
At  last  an  opening  appeared  between  some  trees 
and  bushes,  which,  though  dangerous  to  go 
down,  seemed  the  most  likely  place  for  our 
purpose  of  any  we  had  seen.  A  council  was 
now  held,  whether  an  attempt  should  be  made 
there.  We  all  seemed  pretty  well  agreed,  that 
if  any  one  of  us  would  jump  down  a  smooth 
perpendicular  rock,  about  twenty  feet  in  height, 
when  he  got  to  the  bottom  it  was  likely  he  might 
find  a  place  where  we  might  descend  lower 
with  ease.  Nothing  was  now  wanting  but  a 
mouse  hardy  enough  to  tie  the  bell  about  the 
cat's  neck.  At  last  one  of  the  company,  after 
having  made  one  or  two  fruitless  attempts,  fixed 
a  forked  pole  to  the  branch  of  a  tree  that  hung 
over  the  rock,  and  by  that  means  let  himself 
down  to  the  bottom.     The  fork  of  the   pole 


12 


JOURNEY   TO    NIAGARA. 


,.■■* 
iflf 


I  if 


I 


Mi 


broke  as  he  was  going  down,  and  I  think  it  is 
a  wonder  he  did  not  break  liis  neck. 

After  looking  about  him  some  time,  he  found 
some  notched  logs,  not  twenty  yards  from  the 
place  where  he  had  risked  breaking  his  bones,  that 
served  as  a  ladder,  by  which  the  whole  company 
went  down  easily  to  the  place  where  he  was. 

We  then  scrambled  down,  holding  by  stumps 
and  roots,  and  tufts  of  grass,  to  the  bottom,  and 
a  terrible  piece  of  work  we  had  before  we  got 
there.  Our  labor,  however,  was  in  a  great 
measure  recompensed  by  a  sight  of  the  Falls, 
which  appear  much  higher  and  much  more 
beautiful  than  from  above,  on  cither  side.  We 
went  so  near,  as  to  be  wet  through  with  the 
spray.  After  getting  to  the  bottom  of  the  preci- 
pice, our  anxiety  to  be  near  the  Falls  was  so  great, 
that  we  forgot  to  mark  the  place  where  we  came 
down ;  and  so,  after  our  curiosity  was  satisfied 
with  looking,  we  were  obliged  to  wander  up  and 
down  for  three  hours,  and  scramble  over  many 
dangerous  places,  before  we  could  find  our  w  ay. 
The  night  approaching,  gave  us  a  comfortable 
prospect  of  staying  there  till  morning ;  and  the 
appearance  of  wolves'  tracks  in  many  places 
added  much  to  our  pleasant   situation.     We 


JOURNEY    TO    NIAGARA. 


13 


IS 

Ind 
the 

hat 

my 


got 


were  informed  that  those  animals  frequently 
travelled  about  that  place,  in  companies  of 
about  twenty  or  thirty  at  a  time,  and  were  so 
fierce  as  to  attack  men  even  in  the  middle  of 
the  day.  As  we  had  nothing  with  us  to  defend 
ourselves,  nor  flint  and  steel  to  make  a  fire,  I 
think  the  odds  were  above  five  to  four  that  no 
part  of  us  except  our  bones  would  have  ever  got 
to  the  top  of  the  hill,  undigested,  if  we  had  not 
luckily  found  our  way. 

Upon  the  whole,  our  jaunt  was  difficult  and 
dangerous,  and  although  a  sight  of  the  Falls 
from  below  affords  great  pleasure,  yet  it  is  not 
adequate  to  the  trouble  and  hazard  necessary 
to  the  obtaining  it. 

The  Falls  of  Niagara  have  been  measured 
several  times  by  a  line,  let  down  from  a  rock 
near  the  top  of  the  Falls.  From  the  best  accounts 
I  could  get,  I  think  they  are  about  one  hundred 
and  forty  feet  perpendicular.  They  are  ex- 
tremely grand,  and  are  well  worth  seeing. 

During  our  stay  in  this  part  of  the  world,  we 
went  to  Fort  Erie,  which  is  situated  on  the 
mouth  of  the  Lake  of  that  name.  Lake  Erie 
is  about  three  hundred  miles  long,  and  about 
one  hundred  and  twenty  broad. 


i<..^i 


14 


JOURNEY    TO    NIAGARA. 


in 


II 


hi 


At  the  north-west  corner  of  Lake  Eric  is 
Detroit  on  the  Straits  between  that  Lake  and 
Lake  Huron ;  eighteen  miles  up  these  Straits 
is  Fort  Pontchartrain. 

Niagara  seems  to  be  the  key  of  all  our 
northern  pessessions  in  America ;  yet  so  fond 
arc  the  Ministry  of  the  appearance  of  economy, 
that  this  Fort,  for  want  of  a  trifling  annual  ex- 
pense, is  suffered  to  go  to  ruin.  The  works 
are  all  built  of  turf;  they  are  very  extensive, 
and  very  much  out  of  repair.  The  command- 
ing officer  assured  me,  that  if  the  Fort  was  at- 
tacked it  must  fall,  as  he  did  not  think  it  ten- 
able. There  is  indeed  in  the  Fort  a  large  stone 
house,  ninety  by  forty-five  feet,  which  is 
proof  against  any  Indian  attacks,  even  though 
they  were  in  possession  of  the  Fort,  yet  if  there 
were  three  or  four  Frenchmen,  with  these  In- 
dians, who  could  show  them  the  use  of  the 
cannon  in  the  Fort,  the  house  would  soon  be 
levelled  to  the  ground.  This  large  house  was 
built  by  the  French,  under  the  pretence  of  its 
being  a  trading-house,  the  Indians  refusing 
then  to  permit  them  to  build  a  fort.  Soon  after 
the  house  was  built,  they  raised  a  stockr  de 
about  it,  and  by  degrees  constructed  the  regular 
fortification,  which  is  now  seen  here. 


JOURNEY   TO    NIAGARA. 


15 


The  officers'  fresh  provisions  were  entirely 
out,  and  they  had  not  a  drop  of  wine ;  we  luckily 
had  a  little  which  we  brought  up  with  us. 

When  we  first  arrived  we  were  told  that 
the  schooner  that  carries  provisions  between 
Niagara  and  Oswegachy,  would  certainly  ar- 
rive in  two  or  thriee  days  ;  we  waited  with  the 
utmost  expectation  for  her,  but  she  did  not  ap- 
pear until  Saturday,  16th  Augpst,  when  to  our 
great  joy  she  arrived. 

Thursday,  22d  August.  At  12  o'clock  sailed 
and  arrived  at  Fort  Ontario.  24th.  In  the 
morning  sailed  ;  in  the  evening  the  schooner 
lay-to,  opposite  Cataraqui  or  Frontenac,  a  small 
fort  at  the  north  side  of  the  entrance  of  the 
River  St.  Lawrence,  about  ninety  miles  from 
Fort  Ontario. 

The  French  had  their  grand  magazine  of 
provisions  here,  from  whence  they  supplied  all 
their  back  forts.  It  was  taken  by  Colonel 
Bradstrect,  in  1757.  We  went  on  shore  and 
walked  about  the  fort,  which  is  now  deserted 
and  in  ruins.  At  night,  came  to  an  anchor  in 
the  river. 

26th.  Sailed  down  the  river,  which  affords 
many  beautiful  prospects,  from  the  number  of 


16 


JOURNEY    TO   NIAGARA. 


V    I 


small  islands  that  are  in  it.  At  night,  ran  along- 
side a  large  rock  and  tied  the  schooner,  which 
served  instead  of  coming  to  anchor.  Caught 
some  fine  fish. 

27th.  The  wind  being  contrary  we  still  kept 
fast  to  the  rock.     28th.  Set  sail,  and  anchored. 

29th.  Arrived  at  Oswegachy,  a  small  fort 
built  for  the  protection  of  the  provision  which 
is  sent  there  from  Montreal,  for  the  supply  of 
the  garrisons  of  Ontario,  Niagara,  Detroit,  &c. 

Oswegachy  is  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles 
from  Fort  Ontario,  and  ninety  from  the  first 
entrance  into  the  River  St.  Lawrence,  from 
the  lake. 

30th.  Left  Oswegachy  in  a  very  small 
wooden  canoe.  Mr.  Madden,  who  commanded 
at  the  Fort,  could  get  us  no  other.  Two 
savages  and  a  soldier  of  the  fifteenth  regiment, 
were  our  conductors  and  guides,  and  miserable 
ones  they  turned  out  to  be. 

Nine  miles  from  Oswegachy,  is  a  small  island 
on  which  is  built  Fort  William  Augustus,  taken 
by  General  Amherst,  in  1760.  The  grenadiers 
of  the  whole  army,  under  the  command  of 
Lieutenant  Colonel  Massey,  of  the  twenty- 
seventh  regiment,  were  ordered  to  storm  the 


Mi,  I 


JOURNKY    TO   NIAGARA. 


17 


Iht 


fort,  as  they  had  sustained  a  siege  of  three 
days;  luckily  for  both  parties,  the  fort  sur- 
rendered before  they  began  the  storm. 

Proceeded  over  some  very  bad  rapids,  some 
of  them  several  miles  in  length.  Our  canoe  in 
passing  one  of  these  rapids  took  in  a  considera- 
ble quantity  of  water,  and  was  turned  round  by 
the  current.  Got  that  night  to  St.  Anjuste, 
about  forty  miles  from  Oswegachy,  an  Indian 
village  of  about  forty  houses.  We  lodged  at 
the  house  of  one  Gordon,  a  Jesuit  priest,  who 
was  very  civil,  and  gave  us  some  dried  eels  and 
eggs  for  supper,  which  was  all  he  had  in  the 
house. 

As  it  was  our  custom  always  to  rise  very 
early  when  travelling,  we  were  under  some  un- 
easiness lest  we  should  disturb  the  priest,  but 
he  assured  us  that  he  was  up  every  morning  at 
four  o'clock.  He  came  into  our  room  the  next 
morning  at  that  hour ;  soon  after  we  saw  him 
upon  his  knees  praying.  We  offered  him 
some  chocolate,  which  we  had  brought  with  us 
for  breakfast,  but  he  declined  it,  telling  us  he 
ate  very  little  on  Sunday. 

After  thanking  him  for  his  civilities,  we  em- 
barked in  our  vessel,  and  soon  came  to  some 

3 


18 


JOURNEY    TO   NIAGAUA. 


I 


terrible  rapids,  which  wc  were  just  going  down, 
but  luckily  saw  an  Indian  trader,  who  assured 
us  that  if  we  attempted  to  go  down  in  so  small 
a  canoe,  we  might  depend  upon  being  cast  away; 
and  if  that  had  been  the  case,  every  man  of  us 
would  certainly  have  been  drowned ;  the  stream 
ran  so  violently,  that  swimming  would  have 
availed  us  nothing. 

The  only  chance  we  had,  was  to  go  ashore, 
unload  our  boat,  and  carry  every  thing  on  board 
to  a  point  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant, 
which  we  did,  and  the  trader,  with  several  sav- 
ages he  had  with  him,  assisted  in  dragging  our 
canoe  over  the  rocks,  down  to  that  point,  by  a 
long  rope  fixed  to  her  head.  After  giving  him 
two  piasters  for  his  civility,  we  reembarked  and 
proceeded  over  some  disagreeable  rapids  (but 
not  near  so  bad  as  those  just  mentioned,)  to 
the  Cedars,  where  we  lay  that  night. 

What  is  called  the  Cedars  is  a  range  of  French 
settlements,  about  three  or  four  miles  long ;  the 
only  houses  we  have  seen  since  we  left  Cata- 
ragui,  except  Oswegachi,  Fort  William  Augus- 
tus, and  St.  Anjuste,  which  is  about  one  hun- 
dred and  forty  miles. 

The  man  at  the  house  where  we  lay  assured 


JOURNEY    TO    NIAGARA. 


19 


us  that  what  tlic  trader  had  told  us  was  very 
true,  for  Imd  we  but  gone  twenty  yards  farther 
than  where  we  landed,  the  consequences  must 
inevitably  have  been  fatal. 
The  behaviour  of  the  poor  French  inhabitants 
of  this  part  of  the  world  is  extremely  different 
from  what  is  met  with  in  any  of  the  British 
settlements  in  America ;  the  Frenchmen  affable, 
civil,  and  always  ready  to  do  any  thing  in  their 
power  to  oblige.  On  the  contrary,  a  Briton, 
piquing  himself  on  his  liberty,  (which  in  my 
opinion  is  nothing  more  than  an  insubstantial 
vision,  and  like  the  colors  in  a  prism  entirely 
deceptive,)  will  treat  you  with  haughtiness  and 
effrontery,  and  though  you  pay  him  liberally 
for  every  thing  you  have  of  him,  thinks  you 
are  more  obliged  to  him  than  he  to  you.  It  is 
said  that  the  good  behaviour  of  these  poor 
Frenchmen  is  owing  to  their  having  been  ruled 
with  a  rod  of  iron  when  this  country  was  in 
the  hands  of  its  former  masters ;  it  is  very  prob- 
able. I  am  sorry  that  so  good  an  effect  should 
be  produced  by  so  bad  a  cause. 

Monday,  1st  September.  Lefl  the  Cedars  on 
horseback,  and  had  all  our  baggage  carried  in 
a   cart  three  leagues.     This   was   absolutely 


20 


JOURNEY    TO    NIAGARA. 


necessary,  as  there  were  three  or  four  very  bad 
rapids,  down  whicli  our  caiioc  could  not  go, 
otherwise  than  very  light.  We  got  the  man  of 
the  liouse  where  we  lay  (whose  business  it  is) 
to  pilot  her  down.  Embarked ;  got  to  La  Chine 
about  two  o'clock.  Afler  dinner  rode  nine  miles 
to  Montreal,  which  was  no  small  comfort  to  us 
afler  all  our  difllculties. 

The  town  of  Montreal  stands  upon  an  island 
of  the  same  name ;  it  is  forty  miles  long  and  fif- 
teen broad,  surrounded  by  branches  of  the 
river  St.  Lawrence. 

Saw  the  troops  reviewed  by  Major-General 
Burton,  commander-in-chief  in  the  northern 
district.  The  soldiers  looked  and  performed  their 
exercise  well ;  afterward  a  cold  collation  under 
a  tent ;  French  ladies  there,  very  ugreeable  and 
chatty ;  English  country  dances  on  the  grass. 
Madame  Landrieve  my  partner ;  the  prettiest 
woman  and  the  best  dancer  in  the  set. 

4th.  Sailed  on  board  a  sloop  with  a  fair 
wind  for  Quebec ;  got  seventy  miles.  The 
pilot,  afraid  to  sail  in  the  night  on  account  o/ 
the  rocks,  anchored. 

Breakfasted  with  Col.  Massey  of  the  Twenty- 
Seventh  Regiment  at  Trois  Rivieres,  a  tpwn 


JOURNEY   TO    NUOAIIA. 


31 


o, 
of 


cs 
us 


ninety  miles  from  Montreal,  so  called  from  the 
river  St.  Maurice  havin^r  three  mouths  near  it. 
About  one  hundred  and  fifly  houses. 

Wind  still  contrary  ;  lay  here;  no  wind  in  the 
morning ;  beat  down  with  the  tide  thirty  miles ; 
went  on  sliore,  rode  by  the  banks  of  the  river 
to  Quebec  in  machines  called  callaches,  an 
humble  imitation  of  a  buggy,  or  one-horse 
chaise,  though  much  inferior ;  very  little  better 
than  a  cart. 

7th.  Arrived  at  Quebec,  the  capital  of  Can- 
ada, a  fine  situation  on  the  river  St.  Lawrence, 
one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  from  Montreal ; 
the  finest  river  I  ever  saw,  the  banks  on  each 
side  entirely  cleared  from  Montreal  to  Quebec  ; 
as  thickly  built  to  api)earance  as  the  sides  of 
the  Thames  from  London  to  Richmond. 

The  north  side  of  the  river  looks  like  one 
straggling  village  for  upward  of  one  hundred 
miles. 

Eighteen  leagues  from  Montreal  is  a  broad 
part  of  the  river  St.  Lawrence,  which  is  called 
lake  St.  Pierre.  This  lake  is  nine  leagues  long, 
and  in  some  parts  three,  four,  and  five  leagues 
broad. 

There  are  seven  hundred  houses  and  two 


h-^ 


22 


JOURNEY   TO    NIAGARA. 


nunneries  in  Quebec ;  one  about  two  miles  from 
the  town,  called  the  General  Hospital.  The 
nuns  here  arc  chiefly  employed  in  cu»ing  the 
sick.  Each  nunnery  has  between  thirty  or  forty 
nuns. 

Saw  the  famous  plains  of  Abraham,  where 
General  Wolfe  was  killed,  13th  September, 
1759.  Inspired  with  courage  by  riding  over 
the  field  of  battle  ;  wished  to  be  a  soldier.  At 
night  grew  prudent,  and  altered  my  opinion  by 
thinking  of  Falstaff*'s  honor. 

Wolfe's  body  buried  in  Westminster  Abbey. 
No  monument  or  obelisk  to  his  memory  here. 
Scandalous! 

Rode  eight  miles  by  the  banks  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  to  the  Falls  of  Montmorency,  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  perpendicular,  twenty 
yards  broad  ;  very  curious. 

Remains  of  the  French  entrenchments  all 
along  the  side  of  the  river ;  fine  scene  for  a 
contemplative  military  man.  Saw  the  Falls  of 
the  Chaudiere  River,  about  eighty  feet  high. 

Nine  miles  from  Quebec.  Went  to  the  Isle 
of  Orleans,  where  the  English  first  landed  in 
Canada.  Went  to  Point  Levy.  The  Island 
of  Orleans  is  fifteen  leagues  long ;   the  River 


JOURNEY    TO    NIAGARA. 


23 


St.  Lawrence  on  each  side  of  it.  Great  civili- 
ties received  from  Major  Brown,  of  the  Twenty- 
eighth  regiment.  The  officers  of  the  Twenty- 
eighth  and  Forty-fourii  I  regiments  very  civil 
to  us. 

The  cold  is  so  intense  at  Quebec,  that  all  the 
meat  and  poultry  which  is  used  dun  ng  the  win- 
ter is  killed  in  the  beginning  of  December,  and 
kept  frozen  till  the  beginning  of  April.     If  the 
meat  is  frozen  immediately  after  it  is  killed,  it 
will  be  as  tough  when  thawed  at  the  end  of 
three  or  four  months  as  the  day  it  was  killed. 
If  it  is  kept  four  or  five  days,  till  it  is  grown 
tender  before  it  is  frozen,  it  will  be  in  the  same 
state  when  thawed ;  and  suffers  not  the  least 
degree  of  putrefaction  by  being  kept  any  length 
of  time  frozen.     Frozen  meat  is  cut  with  an 
axe ;  will  fly    into   chips,  like  a  block  of  ice. 
The  neatest  and  most  frugal  method  of  cutting 
frozen  meat  is  with  a  saw ;  the  saw-dust  makes 
excellent  soup.     Milk   is  brought   to   market 
frozen  in  bags. 

duebec  was  terribly  shattered  during  the 
siege  by  the  English  batteries  on  Point  Levy, 
'^  hich  ie  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  op- 
posite to  the  town;  the  river  is  eleven  hun- 
dred yards  across  here. 


ft 


24 


JOURNKY   TO   NIAGARA. 


i 


There  are  about,  seven  hundred  houses  in 
duebec.  Met  Lord  Adam  Gordon  here,  just 
come  from  Niagara. 

Went  to  Lorette,  an  Indian  village  about 
eight  miles  from  Quebec.  Saw  the  Indians  at 
mass,  and  heard  them  sing  Psalms  tolerably 
well.  A  dance.  Got  well  acquainted  with 
Athanase,  who  was  commander-in-chief  of  the 
Indians,  who  defeated  General  Braddock  in 
1755.  A  very  sensible  fellow.  About  one 
hundred  fighting  men  in  this  town. 

Left  Quebec.  Next  day  got  to  Trois 
Rivieres ;  spent  a  day  with  Colonel  Massey. 
Fine  fields  of  wheat  and  other  grain  between 
Quebec  and  Montreal. 

The  stages  between  these  towns  are :  St. 
Foix,  Carrouge,  St.  Augustin,  Point  aux  Trem- 
bles, Jacquatier,  Cape  Santc,  De  Chambault, 
Bas  Grondines,  Haut  Grondincs,  St.  Ann, 
Batiscan,  Champlain,  Champlain  Haut,  Cape 
Madelain,  Trois  Rivieres,  Point  du  Lac,  Ma- 
shish,  Riviere  Deloup,  Maskenonge,  Bertie,  Dou- 
tr  y,  Valletree,  St.  Sulpice,  Arpentini,  Long  Point, 
Poiiit  aux  Trembles,  and  then  to  Montreal ; 
altogether  about  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles. 

Rode  ten  miles  up  the  River  St.  Lawrence, 


JOURNEY    TO  NIAGARA. 


25 


and  crossed  over  to  Cocknewaga,  an  Indian 
village.  About  two  hundred  fighting  men 
here  ;  fine  strong  looking  fellows. 

Went  with  General  Burton  to  the  top  of 
Mount  Royal,  about  four  miles  from  Montreal, 
which  takes  its  name  from  the  mountain. 

Frequent  tea  drinking,  and  dancing  with  the 
French  ladies ;  some  of  them  pretty,  others  try 
to  make  themselves  so  by  paint.  In  the  time 
of  the  French  government  of  Canada,  no  ladies 
but  such  as  were  of  the  noblesse,  were  suffered 
to  wear  ribbands  or  aigrettes  in  their  hair ;  this 
custom  is  abolished  now,  and  it  is  as  common 
here  to  see  women  of  all  sorts  bedecked  with 
flowers  and  ribbands  in  their  hair  as  in  South 
Carolina,  the  country  of  pomipoons.  Noblesse 
does  not  imply  being  related  to  a  nobleman 
only,  but  likewise  to  an  officer.  If  a  woman's 
fourth  or  fiflh  cousin  happened  to  be  married  lu 
an  officer,  she  became  immediately  ennobled, 
and  was  suffered  to  decorate  herself  with  a 
ribband.  It  is  a  great  mortification  to  these 
ladies,  that  now  every  creature  may  ornament 
her  hair  as  she  pleases. 

Among  the  men,  none  but  those  of  the  no- 
blesse were  allowed  to  ride  with  saddles.     I  ex- 

4 


!  I  I 


26 


JOURPiEY   TO  NIAGARA. 


perienced  the  bad  effects  of  this,  having  been 
thumped  upon  a  blanket. 

Went  with  Lord  Adam,  General  Burton,  and 
several  officers  to  Seneville,  the  end  of  the  island 
of  Montreal,  thirty  miles  from  the  town ;  cross- 
ed the  Ottowa  River,  about  seven  miles  to 
Canisadaga,  an  Indian  town.  About  three  hun- 
dred warriors  in  it,  very  formidable  looking  fel- 
lows. Saw  them  in  chapel  at  prayers,  kept  in 
the  greatest  order ;  the  chapel  a  very  good  buil- 
ding, ornamented  within  with  scripture  pictures. 
A  fine  altar-piece,  gilt. 

All  these  Indians  educated  in  the  Roman 
Catholic  religion,  some  of  them  great  bigots. 

Had  a  very  elegant  supper  given  us  by  Mon- 
sieur Montgolphie,  the  head  of  the  St.  Sulpician 
priests  here,  who  have  the  management  of  these 
Indians. 

.   Monsieur  St.  Luke  La  Corne,  a  Croix  de  St. 
Louis,  the  French  partisan,  was  with  us. 

Next  morning  walked  about  three  miles  to 
the  top  of  Mount  Calvere.  Four  little  chapels 
upon  the  ascent  of  the  hill,  about  five  hundred 
yards  from  each  other,  and  three  at  the  top. 
Paintings  in  each  of  the  sufferings  of  Christ. 


JOURNEY   TO    NIAGARA. 


ar 


Fine  prospect  here,  of  the  Island  of  Mon- 
treal, and  of  the  rivers  Ottowa  and  St.  Law- 
rence. 

The  St.  Lawrence  is  navigable  for  large  ves- 
sels, up  to  Montreal,  one  hundred  and  seventy 
leagues  from  Anticosti,  an  island  in  its  mouth. 
Great  plenty  of  fish  in  it,  particularly  salmon, 
which  is  as  good  as  any  in  England. 

Canada  contains  one  hundred  thousand  in- 
habitants, exclusive  of  the  troops  in  it. 

Passed  my  time  very  agreeably  with  Col. 
Massey,  who  commanded,  Captain  John  Max- 
well, Captain  William  Prescott,  both  of  the  Fif- 
teenth, and  several  other  officers  whom  I  had 
been  acquainted  with  before. 

16th.  Left  Montreal ;  crossed  the  Ferry  at 
Longuel,  where  we  got  callaches  to  convey  us 
to  La  Prairie,  dined  there,  and  after  dinner 
went  to  St  John's,  eighteen  miles  from  La 
Prairie. 

17th.  Left  St.  John's  with  seven  stout  Ca- 
nadians to  row  us  over  Lake  Champlain.  Met 
Sir  Henry  Moore,  Governor  of  New- York, 
Lient.  Col.  Irving,  President  of  the  Council  at 
Quebec,  Lieut.  Col.  Reid,  of  the  Forty-fc;«^cond 
Regiment,  Phihp  Schuyler,  of  Albany,  and  two 


38 


JOURNEY   TO   NIAGARA. 


or  three  surveyors,  who  were  taking  observa- 
tions to  find  out  the  forty-fifth  degree  of  north 
latitude,  which  is  the  settled  boundary  line  be- 
tween the  provinces  of  New-York  and  Ca- 
nada. 

By  their  observations  at  Windmill  Point, 
(twenty-five  miles  to  the  southward  of  St.  John's) 
they  thought  the  line  must  be  about  three  miles 
nearer  to  Montreal. 

Lay  that  night  in  our  batteaux  upon  the  Lake ; 
ran  the  boat  aground,  and  rested  our  Cana- 
dians for  three  or  four  hours.  At  break  of  day 
proceeded  ;  rowed  hard  all  day  against  a  con- 
trary wind.  Encamped  on  the  east  side  of  the 
Lake,  within  fifteen  miles  of  Crown  Point. 

19th.  Got  to  the  Fort,  dined  with  Captain 
Hamilton  of  the  Fifteenth.  The  fort  at  Crown 
Point  surprisingly  decayed  since  last  year ;  built 
of  wood  at  the  expense  of  £50,000,  when  they 
were  obliged  to  blow  up  fine  lime-stone  to  make 
a  foundation,  which  would  have  answered  both 
the  purposes  of  stone  and  mortar.  The  fort 
extremely  beautiful  to  the  eye,  yet  no  great 
credit  to  Col.  Dyers,  the  engineer  who  built  it. 

Went  in  the  afternoon  sixteen  miles  to  Ti- 


JOURNEY   TO   NIAGARA. 

conderoga.  20th.  Got  a  fresh  batteau,  and 
with  our  Canadians  crossed  Lake  George, 
thirty-six  miles. 

Captain  Lieut.  Rogers,  of  the  Seventeenth, 
who  commanded  at  Fort  Ontario  when  we 
were  on  our  way  to  Niagara,  was  removed  to 
this  fort.  It  is  a  great  hardship  to  those  officers, 
who  have  but  little  interest,  that  they  are  ban- 
died about  from  one  post  to  another,  at  the  arbi- 
trary will  of  the  commander-in-chief)  while  others 
have  leave  to  stay  at  New- York,  go  to  England, 
and  do  what  they  please.  The  expense  and  in- 
convenience of  moving  hundreds  of  miles 
from  one  fort  to  another,  cannot  be  conceived, 
but  by  those  who  have  travelled  over  this 
country,  and  must  be  severely  felt  by  the  poor 
subalterns. 

21st.  Rode  fourteen  miles  on  horseback  to 
Fort  Edward,  which  is  now  abandoned  by  the 
troops.  A  settler  still  lived  here,  and  with  him 
we  dined.  Got  fourteen  miles  that  night  to 
Saratoga.  22d.  Breakfasted  at  Stillwater, 
fourteen  miles  from  Saratoga.  Crossed  Lon- 
don's Ferry,  twelve  miles,  and  dined  at  the 
Dutch  Ferry-house. ,  At  night  got  to  Schenec- 
tady, fourteen  miles.    23d.     Dined  at  Schenec- 


30 


JOURNEY   TO   NIAGARA. 


I  ! 


I 

i  ■ 

ii  ;■ 

ii  > 


tady.  In  the  aflernoon  rode  to  Albany,  eighteen 
miles.  24th.  At  night  went  on  board  an  Al- 
bany sloop.  28th.  In  the  morning  arrived  at 
New-York. 


THE    END. 


J  . 


in 
.1- 
at 


